When it comes to luxury watches, Rolex has unparalleled popularity. In fact, it’s also the world’s most valuable watch brand according to global reports. However, with its status and great demand comes a vigorous counterfeit market — therefore one can easily be duped into buying a fake Rolex watch.
Watches with too-good-to-be-true prices can be spotted right away, but more sophisticated counterfeits can be more challenging to identify. Remember, a Rolex is made to the highest standards – if even a minute detail comes across as sub-par, you can be certain that it’s not the real deal.
Below, we’ll go through the hallmarks that a true Rolex possesses, to help you spot a fake Rolex, and ensure that you’re getting a genuine Rolex timepiece.
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The weight of the watch
The weight of a watch can tell you a lot about its quality. Rolex watches are made out of high-quality materials all the way through. From the band of the watch to the inner workings of the hands and gears, each item of a Rolex is made with the best metals available. That means that a Rolex watch would have a solid feel and heft to it.
Fake watches tend to be a lot lighter in their weight due to being made with lower-quality materials. The difference between the weight of a real Rolex and a fake Rolex can vary, but will still be noticeable.
Vintage Rolexes may weigh a little bit lighter due to their hollow bracelet links, but even then, they will be heftier than fake watches. If your watch feels oddly light, it is likely to be a fake.
Materials
As we touched on, Rolex watches are made with the best materials on the market. With stainless steel, gold, and platinum pieces, Rolex watches have high-quality materials that are not likely to be found on fake watches.
When you are looking at Rolex watches, try to find all the information you can about what materials the watch or particular model is made with. If you are looking at a watch in person, such as when buying from a private individual, you will need to use other methods to check the materials of the watch.
First, check the weight. Pick up your watch and see how hefty it is. If the watch has some weight, that is a good sign that the materials are the high-quality materials real Rolex watches are made with.
Next, check for uneven or incorrect finishing. Rolex uses a combination of finishes on its timepieces, and they can be very difficult for counterfeiters to achieve. Research on the type of finish used on your preferred model, and try to see if the actual piece you want to buy matches it. For example, a Rolex Yachtmaster in steel and platinum would have a platinum bezel with a sandblasted background and polished raised numerals. The Rolex Day-Date’s Presidential bracelet has semi-circular links that alternate between polished and satin finishes. Be on the lookout for these finer details.
In the event that you are looking at what would be a vintage Rolex, then there is a chance you will see wear and tear due to the age of the watch. Any scratches on the case should be the same color as the case itself not considering shadows, as Rolex watches are made of solid metals.
Serial numbers and markers
A Rolex’s serial number is found where the bracelet meets the case of the watch, below 6 o’clock. The model number on the other hand, is found between the lugs above 12 o’clock, accompanied by the text “ORIG ROLEX DESIGN” right above the number. The band has to be removed in order to see these.
Rolex’s serial and model numbers are cleanly engraved into the metal, while fake watches only have it etched by acid, leaving a shallow, sandy-like appearance. A genuine Rolex’s numbers are cut deeply enough that they will glow in the light when raised at an angle.
Moreover, on Rolex watches made 2002 and onward, there is a tiny etched crown logo on the crystal, at the six o’clock position – so small that you may need a magnifying glass to see it clearly.
For an in-depth guide on locating your Rolex serial or model number, here’s Rolex Serial Numbers: How to Check Yours.
Dial and ‘Cyclops’ Lens
The dial of an authentic Rolex watch is meticulously crafted — inconsistent fonts and spacing, as well as smudges are a giveaway of cheaper printing methods used in fake pieces.
The “Cyclops” magnifying lens, or the lens that magnifies the date of the watch, is one of the hardest hallmarks to replicate. When looked straight on, the date should be magnified, about 2.5 magnification to be exact.
Do also try to run your finger over the lens – you should feel a bump which is dead-centered over the date.
Counterfeiters also tend to use whatever materials are available, and they will cut corners on the minute details. Look closely at the Rolex dial and watch out for the following tell-tale signs:
Cyclops Lens
The cyclops lens is a good tell for whether you are looking at a fake Rolex or not. Most Rolex watches with a date window will have a cyclops lens, but keep in mind that there are a few models that won’t have cyclops lens, such as the Rolex Sea-Dweller 116600. If you see a cyclops lens, check to see if it is adhered to crystal and should have magnification. If the cyclops lens makes the date hard to read, then the watch is likely a fake.
Date
If your Rolex watch features a date complication on the dial, the date should change in one smooth sweep at 12 o’clock. A slight deviation of around 5 minutes is considered normal and falls within the specifications. However, if the date changes gradually or slows down significantly, this could be a sign that the watch is a counterfeit.
Hands
The seconds hand of a true Rolex watch should look like it’s moving in a smooth, continuous motion. If it jerks with each tick of a second, then it might be a fake. One exception to this is the Rolex Oysterquartz, which runs on a quartz movement instead of a mechanical one.
Ticking of the hands
“Do Rolex watches tick?” is one of the most common questions we encounter. The answer is not as simple as a yes or no.
The ticking sound typically associated with watches refers to quartz watches, which are battery-powered and have seconds hands that jerk forward every second, hence producing the familiar tick-tock sound.
On the other hand, most Rolex watches are equipped with mechanical (either automatic or manual-winding) movements. Thus, they have seconds hands that move at a much faster rate, creating a smooth, sweeping effect. Listening closely to a running Rolex watch, one will still hear a faint sound, but not the prominent tick-tock produced by quartz watches.
It is also important to note that Rolex has made quartz watches in the past – the Rolex Oysterquartz, which is powered by quartz movements. In these watches, one will observe the familiar ticking per second.
Crown markings
On a real Rolex, there are clear markings on the crown of the watch. The crown is what you use to wind or set the watch time.
First, the crown should have a fluted design. Then, there will be a Rolex Coronet logo engraved onto the center of the crown. If this design is missing from a watch, or has a sub-par finish, the watch is likely a counterfeit.
In recent models, the coronet has two to three dots underneath. These dots may also be bars, but they are there, nonetheless. While not having these dots or bars is not a single indicator of a fake, if you know you are looking at a recent model of a Rolex, that extra design is supposed to be there.
Movement
Rolex movements are mechanical and self-winding, while replicas are usually quartz or battery-powered. Do note that a very limited number of Rolex watches, specifically Rolex Oysterquartz produced between the 1970s to the 2000s, were produced with quartz movements.
Additionally, the Rolex movement occurs in tiny micro-ticks per second, so the seconds hand moves in a semi-continuous motion. This means that, as we previously mentioned, there is no clear ticking sound on a real Rolex.
Water resistance
All Rolex watches, except for the Cellini dress watches and the more recently unveiled Rolex Perpetual 1908, are equipped with an Oyster case. Its patented system of screwing down the bezel and case back against the middle case, was meant to protect the movement from water and dust.
Today, the hermetic construction of the Oyster case guarantees Rolex watches to be waterproof up to 100m / 330 feet, and up to 3,900m / 12,800 feet for the Rolex Deepsea, their saturated diving watch. As of 2022, Rolex has released their most water-resistant watch yet, the Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge, which has a depth rating of 11,000 meters (36,090 feet).
Of course, a counterfeit Rolex will not measure up to these standards – but the only way to find out is to subject the timepiece to a water pressure test. We strongly discourage you to perform the water pressure test on your own, for the following reasons:
– If the timepiece is indeed fake, a water pressure test will ruin the watch, and you will be unable to return it.
– If the timepiece is genuine, but is vintage or in need of repair, it may also not withstand a pressure test.
If you suspect that your timepiece is fake, it is best to bring it to an authorized Rolex dealer for inspection.
Bracelet
Rolex has their own family of bracelet designs that are paired with each collection of watches. For example, a Rolex Submariner watch would sport an Oyster bracelet. If the bracelet style is mismatched with the style that you bought, then there are several possibilities: it could be a very rare model, an aftermarket modification, or a counterfeit. For more information on this subject, SwissWatchExpo covered Rolex’s different bracelet types.
Another thing to watch out for are genuine timepieces paired with aftermarket bracelets. As bracelets can get stretched from wear, a seller may choose to pair a genuine timepiece with an aftermarket bracelet. A reputable dealer would disclose any modifications to the original design before sale.
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Caseback
Most genuine Rolex casebacks have plain polished metal, and do not have engravings of words, logos, or pictures. They do not have a clear window showing the movements on the back of the watch.
There are some exceptions to these however:
– Some very rare vintage models from the 1930’s have clear casebacks.
– Rolex Sea Dweller and military models, and older Lady Datejust models may have engravings such as “Stainless Steel”, “Registered Design”, and the model name and water resistance level on the back.
– The most recent Rolex Daytona Platinum watch (ref 126506) was introduced in 2023 with a transparent caseback to show the new Caliber 4131 movement.
Choose a reputable dealer
With a burgeoning counterfeit market, Rolex replicas have become better and more difficult to detect.
Your best defense against buying a fake is to purchase your Rolex from a reputable dealer. Doing so will ease your concerns of authenticity and condition, and you can be sure that you will be given proper assistance.
Here are some qualities of a reputable watch dealer:
– A reputable and legitimate watch dealer would have solid presence online, as well as real testimonials from previous buyers.
– A long-standing retailer would also have affiliations with respected organizations, such as The International Watch & Jewelry Guild, or the American Watchmakers & Clockmakers Institute.
– They would have a guarantee of authenticity and warranties on the watch. These serve to assure you that they have reviewed each watch for authenticity and quality before putting them up for sale.
– They would also be open to you taking the watch to Rolex, or an authorized Rolex dealer, for authentication. At SwissWatchExpo, we welcome clients to do this with their purchased watches, for their peace of mind.
All these are proof that they stand behind the products they sell, and can guarantee your complete satisfaction.
Reasons why you shouldn’t buy a fake rolex
It can be tempting to buy a fake Rolex. They are typically much cheaper than a real Rolex which can make having a Rolex more accessible to the general public. However, there are very good reasons why you shouldn’t buy a fake Rolex.
Quality
When you buy a fake Rolex, you are not getting the same quality as you would if you bought a real Rolex. While sometimes, the aesthetics can be matched, the construction and mechanics of a Rolex watch will be hard for a counterfeiter to match. Rolex invests heavily on research, materials, design, and manufacturing – a watch from an illegitimate operation will not come close.
The time-telling of a fake Rolex would not be as accurate and you would spend a lot of time and resources fixing the time-tracking capabilities. You may also find a fake Rolex made with materials that can cause an allergic reaction to sensitive skin.
Overall, it’s not worth it to buy a Rolex for a few hundred to a thousand dollars if it’s not going to last. That is still a lot of money to be wasting on a watch that you know won’t last you nearly the same amount of time as if you were to get a real Rolex.
Your personal information may be stolen
Fake Rolex watches are often sold on sketchy websites where you may be asked to put in some personal information. If you don’t pay attention to whether or not the website that you are on is secured or not, you may be giving your credit card information to a fake seller.
This can lead to a huge loss of money and credit card fraud. In extreme cases, you might experience your identity being stolen.
Your watch can be confiscated
Rolex takes their watches seriously and the selling of fake Rolex watches is considered criminal activity. Whether you are aware that you are wearing a fake Rolex or not, your watch can be taken away by the authorized dealers and by service centers.
There have been cases where fake Rolex watches have been confiscated at airports during security searches along with being confiscated at the mall. If you spend a lot of money buying a fake Rolex, you could easily have all that money wasted if your watch is taken away.
Damage your reputation
Typically, those who buy Rolex watches want their purchase to be known by collectors and other professionals. While the average person on the street may not realize that you are wearing a fake Rolex, collectors and those in the know may realize and your reputation can be damaged.
If you are in the watch community, having a strong reputation is important. Being found out for having a fake watch will only lead to embarrassment.
This is even direr of a situation if you sell watches. Others in the community won’t buy watches from you if they know you are selling or even own fakes.
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How to Spot a Fake Rolex Watch: Final Thoughts
We always recommend buying your Rolex watch from a reputable dealer for your peace of mind. For the situations where you end up having to examine a watch to know if it is a real Rolex or not, here’s a recap of what to look out for:
Weight of the watch: Authentic Rolex watches are made with high-quality materials and have a solid quality and heft to them. Fake watches are often lighter due to lower-quality materials.
Materials: Rolex watches are made with premium materials such as stainless steel, gold, and platinum. They also have observable high-quality finishing. Fake watches may feel lighter or have uneven or incorrect finishing.
Serial numbers and markers: Genuine Rolex watches have deeply engraved serial numbers and model numbers in designated parts of the watch, while fakes may have shallow, acid-etched numbers that appear sandy-like and placed in wrong parts of the watch.
Dial and Cyclops lens: The dial of a real Rolex is meticulously crafted. It would have consistent fonts, spacing, and markings. The Cyclops lens, which magnifies the date, should have strong magnification and a bump centered over the date.
Hands and Ticking: The second hand of a genuine Rolex should move in a smooth, continuous motion. An exception to this is the Rolex Oysterquartz, which is powered by quartz movements, and thus ticks every second.
Crown Markings: A real Rolex crown should have clear markings and a fluted design. Look for the Rolex Coronet design on the crown and the presence of dots (or bars) underneath the Coronet.
Water Resistance: Rolex watches, except for the Cellini dress watch and Perpetual 1908, are equipped with an Oyster case that ensures water resistance. Fake Rolex watches will not withstand the same water pressure levels as genuine ones.
Rolex invests significant effort in ensuring their watches reach the highest level of quality, making them truly exceptional timepieces. A genuine Rolex watch is undoubtedly worth the investment.
If you are ready to make this commitment, our team of watch experts are here to assist you every step of the way. Explore our vast selection of Rolex watches at SwissWatchExpo.com, or contact us at (404) 814-1814 or info@swisswatchexpo.com.
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