Rolex Reference Numbers Explained

A Brief History of Rolex Reference Numbers

If you look back on the history of Rolex, you’d notice that their reference numbers have become longer over time. They began by using four-digit reference numbers, then transitioned to five-digit numbers in the mid-1970s. In the 2000s, these became the six-digit reference numbers that are being used today.

Four-digit references – Rolex watches produced until the late 1970s
Five-digit references – Rolex watches produced from the late 1970s until 1999
Six-digit references – Rolex watches produced from 2000 until the present

In recent years, Rolex also started using six-digit references to indicate that a watch is a newer reference. Typically, they would add the number 1 or 2 in front of an already existing reference number. Take the case of the Rolex Explorer II for example: the reference 16570 was replaced by the newer 216570.

Understanding Rolex Reference Numbers

So what exactly does a Rolex reference number tell us? Unlike other brands’ reference number systems, Rolex’s is actually surprisingly simple. Each digit and character in a Rolex reference number gives us an insight into four aspects of the watch: its Model Type, Bezel Type, Material, and Bezel Color.
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Model Type

The first two to four digits tells us what kind of model it is. By “model” we mean the collection or family of watches it belongs to, such as the Datejust, GMT-Master and the like. Each model type has a designated set of numbers. As this is a very vast list, we’re showing the most recent traditional model types below.

Bezel Type

If the reference number is five to six digits long, the second to the last number describes the bezel type. They are classified as follows.

Material

The sixth digit in the reference number, meanwhile, tells you what type of metal the watch is made of. For watches with a reference number of less than 6 digits, the last digit in the reference number tells you what metal it is made of.

Letters

Finally, as you might have observed, modern references also come with letters affixed to them. There’s the popular Rolex Kermit for example, with its famous suffix LV or the Rolex Pepsi with its suffix BLRO.

These letters are actually abbreviations for French colors, gems, and other watch elements. As a Geneva-based company, French is actually Rolex’s official language. Here are the most commonly used French terms in Rolex reference numbers:

Bleu: Blue
Brillants: Faceted diamonds
Chocolat: Chocolate (or brown)
Emeraude: Emerald
Glace: Window (or crystal)
Jaune: Yellow
Lunette: Bezel
Noir: Black
Rouge: Red
Rubis: Ruby
Saphirs: Sapphire
Vert: Green

In the case of the Rolex Kermit, LV stands for Lunette Vert (Green Bezel); while in the case of the Rolex Pepsi, BLRO stands for Bleu Rouge (Blue and Red). The Milgauss, famous for its green sapphire crystal has the suffix GV, for Glace Vert (Green Window).